Just one day of isolation: Tremiti Islands

An hour boat trip off Gargano coast in Puglia, Italy are the Isole Tremiti. From the mainland on a clear day, they look like little specks on the horizon. At night there is a glow from them. But it's only by going there do you get what's so special about them. An archipelago in the Adriatic its spectacular waters and unique history make it well worth a visit.

You could go anytime, but if you're just going for a day, when the sea is calm is ideal. After all, you don't want to be falling over tourists packed on a boat. Day trips are organised from most towns along the Gargano coast. We took off from the port at Rodi, a modern-looking tourist port. As you watch the beaches and mountains of the Gargano fade away, the outline of the island gradually emerge. 

The islands have had a history of being a place of confinement and punishment. But it's an unusual sort of punishment. Sure the Adriatic can be less beautiful than the other waters around Italy. Often the Adriatic seems like a repository for garbage washed down from northern Italy. But it still has sun, sand and endless beaches and tranquil calm waters. Assuming you don't mind the isolation, this sort of confinement must have been horrible.  

Approaching the islands, the first you see is the abbey on San Nicola. The monastery has been on the site since about the ninth century.  With an imposing structure that has been extended and modified over the centuries, it's impressive. Even if the years have not been kind to it. The elements, centuries of neglect and use as a place of confinement have taken its toll. But as seagulls circle around and goats are foraging on its cliffs, it still leaves an impression.

After exploring San Nicola for an hour or so, a short boat trip will take you over to San Domino. This is where the beaches are. And the majority of people. The first beach, Cala Delle Arene, has every grain of sand covered with umbrellas and deck chairs. And on a particularly lovely tranquil day they’re occupied. And so are the waters. But if you're not so interested in swimming in a human soup, you can walk a little longer around to Cala Matana. It's a sandy bay surrounded by rocks. It's less busy, and the rocky areas make it ideal for snorkelling. 

Along the way, you'll find plenty of bars and cafes. And if you didn't want just to spend the day lounging on the rocks, there are boat trips to take you exploring the archipelago. But there's only so much you can do in just one day. 

The boat to take you back to the mainland leaves at four-thirty.  And like a daily migratory pattern the day trippers converge back on the main port waiting for their boats. You can sense the island heaves a sigh of relief as the herds of day-trippers head on their boats back home and the peace and quiet returns. But it's enough to whet your appetite and make a vow to return at some point. Maybe next time an overnight stay to make the experience last longer.